La collezione Paoloni FW 18-19 attinge al passato per creare forme e stili dal sapore vintage ma reinterpretati in chiave contemporanea, attualizzati nell’aspetto e nella vestibilità. Un sapiente mix tra passato e futuro in cui la collezione si sviluppa attraverso materiali tradizionali e legati alla natura ma al contempo densi di ricerca. In un momento di costante cambiamento ci troviamo ad oscillare tra il monitoraggio ossessivo dei propri dati personali, dei social media, delle notizie e del controllo di sé. Sempre di più si sente il bisogno di entrare in contatto con oggetti, sensazioni che ci toccano emotivamente e fisicamente, oggetti, capi “caldi”, che possano emozionare al tatto, farci ricordare o farci immaginare.
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La proposta di Paoloni vede abiti dalle forme asciutte ma rivisitati con rever pronunciati, rever a lancia e abiti tre pezzi con gilet doppio e monopetto. Le mescole dei tessuti interpretano una nuova opulenza dalla mano naturale e grezza: lane finissime pettinate e aspetti flanella convivono assieme creando microarmature e gessati con righe distanti tra loro, ma anche check e grandi quadri fusi, e poi tessuti leggeri in fustagno e velluto di lana stretch. Capo iconico di stagione la giacca maglia sia mono che doppio petto, completamente sfoderata, intesa nella sua componente più confortevole e morbida, quasi a voler trasferire connotati di calore e comodità in ogni occasione in cui viene indossata. Le giacche maglia sono realizzate in lana “smacchinata” e calata e jersey con armature decise che creano a tratti contrasti materici come macro resche, e a volte giochi cromatici. Anche le giacche tradizionali diventano più morbide nelle forme e nei volumi e strizzano l’occhio ad un approccio più leisure. Le trame sono evidenti ma mescolate tra loro ton sur ton o a contrasto, i quadri risultano macro, ma assolutamente sobri, le giacche in velour tinta unita presentano piccoli dettagli a contrasto, mentre la lana “frosted” conferisce al capo un’allure vissuta ma durevole nel tempo. Tanti gilet che vivono anche di luce propria, realizzati in velluto a coste, in microarmature, in maxi check o macro resche, tutto pensato anche per sposarsi con le giacche di collezione.
I cappotti e i giacconi sono caldi e avvolgenti, in lana e cashmere, doppio petto e non solo, con rever importanti, interni trapuntati e pettorine staccabili, per unire la funzionalità all’eleganza. Ritorna il montgomery rivisto nelle forme, nelle lunghezze e nei dettagli. I giacconi imbottiti risultano meno tecnici e più lanieri, i parka sono realizzati in jersey a taglio vivo, o a grandi quadri con nuance a contrasto ma fuse fra loro.
I colori vanno dai classici blu navy a quelli più accesi e donano modernità alla collezione sia soli che associati ai colori della terra, come il marrone cioccolato o con i grigi luminosi o ancora con i rossi, per creare inattesi regimental e fusioni. Protagoniste le nuances della natura in autunno: il rame, il marrone rosso come le foglie degli alberi in questa stagione, il marrone cioccolato come la terra bagnata, il caffè e il cammello, colori che infondono tepore e benessere. 
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