Fashion

IL SOFT TAILORING DI MANUEL RITZ : FW1819

La collezione FW18 di Manuel Ritz pone l’accento sul concetto di soft tailoring dove il comfort protagonista della collezione è amplificato dalla combinazione di vestibilità slim accanto a volumi over, non escludendo però la componente di eleganza. Abiti e giacche asciutte da sempre caratterizzanti il total look Manuel Ritz, si mescolano a cappotti e pantaloni oversize, proponendo look che incontrano le attuali esigenze di versatilità, comodità e relax. 0
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STILL LIFE MANUEL RITZ FW1819



Le silhouettes rilassate e i look dal sapore nomade, accanto ad elementi sportswear dal gusto artigianale ma tecnico, descrivono il nuovo concetto di comfort. La rivalutazione del rapporto con l’ambiente e il desiderio di riconnessione con la natura si traducono nelle tonalità organiche e nei materiali grezzi delineando il nuovo organic trend: Biofilia. Capi chiave sono le giacche destrutturate in lana dall’aspetto fuso, over check in lana, micro texture fuse, gessati bouclé, i blouson di lana o cotone dall’aspetto ruvido accanto a pantaloni morbidi in jersey, flanella di lana o lana bouclé. L’outwear è rappresentato da parka, montgomery e cappotti lunghi dal gusto sartoriale ma anche bomber realizzati in accoppiato lana e neoprene, realizzati con tessuti tecnologici e performanti. Non solo lana e jersey per gli abiti slim fit ma anche il raso lavato, da sapore workwear ma sofisticato allo stesso tempo. Ad enfatizzare questa tendenza la texture limited edition: Winter Garden, un all over di fiori dalle nuance fredde, scaldate da un tocco di rosso, colore della stagione che tinge oltre all’ormai celebre icona su tutti i recer anche i dettagli di collezione.

A sottolineare il dualismo fra artigianale e tecnologico la proposta Reflex: materia e materiali mutano attraverso l’ornamento reale e virtuale, con mix materici trasformati in ibridi convincenti. L’intelligenza amplificata e la tecnologia sensuale adattano i prodotti al movimento umano, consentendo una nuova era di design reattivo. I materiali risultano sensoriali, le stampe come black watch e check, si rinnovano grazie alla componente riflettente. Lavorazioni stampa 3D e il taglio laser portano a una direzione progettuale individualizzata e hi-tech, che sarà anche eminentemente sostenibile come su parka e pantaloni baggy con bade laterali stampate dall’effetto reflection.

Comfort e leggerezza sono da sempre le parole chiave del progetto Nuvola: abiti, giacche e gilet destrutturati e sfoderati vengono proposti in lana e jersey leggeri, novità del progetto è il Cappotto Nuvola: anche il capospalla incontra l’esigenza di leggerezza e agio.

Denominatore comune per la collezione Manuel Ritz FW18 è l’Identità, l’asterisco diventa sempre più presente come elemento di riconoscibilità del brand e come presenza costante su abiti, giacche, t-shirt e felpe dal dettaglio spilla fino alle stampe all over.

L’immaginario cromatico è una miscela di colori intensi che creano giochi di texture e accostamenti dal sapore caldo ed autunnale che evocano le luci del tramonto con variazioni di toni caldi e freddi. Nella palette cromatica i classici blu e cammello sono i protagonisti, tagliati dal vitaminico rosso. Accanto alle declinazioni del blu da solo o accostato al panna si affiancano tutte le sfumature della terra: marroni, beige, passando dal verdi muschio al verde bosco. Non mancano i grigi dall’antracite al medio fino ad arrivare al chiaro ad accompagnare e miscelare fantasie floreali, micro texture e pied de poule, gessati, check e over check. o fusi con beige e cammello.

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