PITTI UOMO 97 TRENDS Fall-winter 20/21 collections
Trends: CLASSIC Sections: Pitti Uomo, Pop Up Stores, Hi Beauty!
The allure of the uniform The world of uniforms – military and workwear – returns to influence the look of the fall-winter 2020-21 collections, creating clothes with a retro soul, redesigned in a contemporary key and made flawless using top-quality materials. Details – from the palette of colors to the choice of buttons and loops – take their cue from the vintage lines of English and Japanese navy uniforms, comfortable outerwear that cites French aeronautical jackets from the 30’s, and boots designed for the Italian army. But also outfits that recall the appeal of legendary ninja warriors and workwear overalls with important volumes that are matched with heavy denim, checked flannel shirts and lots of jacquard.
Hedonistic choices A sensorial journey through new menswear and the thousand facets of enjoyment and liking yourself. Fabrics created for caressing, exquisite like merino wool and cashmere, unusual like wool matched with jersey, classic like the tweed of overcoats. English stripes and tartan prints on down jackets capture the eye, and the slim cut of padded jackets transform a sportswear garment into a warm embrace. The lines follow the principle of harmony and look to the Orient and especially Japan. Sophisticated underwear and loungewear proposals play the card of burgundy, sky grey, and deep green. On the feet, soft woven moccasins. Finally, capturing the attention are short ties or bowties in silk with strong colors.
Forever gentlemen A classic, yet effortless, style. A relaxed, yet extremely sophisticated mood. Fine fabrics, basic and understated lines, sartorial cuts. For the contemporary gentleman, the proposal spans from iconic jackets, which should never miss out in the wardrobe, to knitwear luxury, created to become more beautiful over time. British echoes for overcoats and Montgomery jackets with a timeless design. Glen check and houndstooth are the preferred fabrics. Heritage takes center stage in accessories: footwear dares with sophisticated palettes that range from dark red to mahogany, while luggage is inspired by vintage trunks. Making a big comeback: the cape.
Trends: INFORMAL Sections: I Play, Urban Panorama, My Factory
Rock allure Fashion and lifestyle for rebellious, yet decidedly metropolitan, spirits. The palette is almost monochromatic: black leads the way and is lit up perhaps by extremely stylish accessories. Outerwear ranges from the overcoat, which outlines the silhouette, to biker-style jackets, passing through padded vests that allow glimpses of bold fleece to be seen. Sartorial cuts become a must and make it possible to alternate leather with silk and velvets. As if to say, tough, yet stylish. A rock spirit is expressed above all in prints that recall symbols and icons dear to the underground world, combined with motivational phrases that incite independence and the courage to always be yourself.
Nordic tastes Winter inspires dreams of snow-filled landscapes, an uncontaminated nature and a dependable wardrobe. The Nordic fashion scene dictates style, even for those brands that are not Nordic. Minimal design, extrawarm fabrics, high performance clothes. For facing the rain and cold, outwear is lightweight and comfortable thanks to technical paddings, inspired by waxed garments for crossing the oceans, graphene jackets and water-repellent wool fabrics. An outerwear that smells of the seaside and forests, while stealing their colors: burgundy, dark blue, and all the tones of the earth, lit up by dark green and surprising appearances by neon yellow. Underneath, knits in cashmere, soft bouclé-effect wool and mohair. Also here understated lines at the most are made vivid by small jacquard inserts.
Vintage moments Much more than citations: styles and trends from the glorious past become a dress code of modern times. The fall-winter 2020/21 collections play around with retro fabrics, with however hyper-technological details, merging the casual philosophy of the Seventies and Eighties with the very first expressions of streetwear
based on graphics and logos. Sometimes, they head for even more distant territories, arriving at American workwear from the Sixties and Madras fabrics from Colonial India for sartorial shirts and explorer’s shearling boots. Sportswear does not escape this trend and with irony proposes outfits that recall the spacesuits of the first legendary Russian astronauts.
Trends: AVANTGARDE Sections: Futuro Maschile, Touch!, l’Altro Uomo, Unconventional, I GO OUT
Tecno-tailoring The overcoat is the meeting point between classic and contemporary. For fall-winter 2020-21, this garment features an undisputed sartorial style, which is matched however with the engineering of paddings and waterproof fabrics. The lines are sophisticated, basic, with hyper-functional and multitasking contents for everyday challenges. Research also extends to the field of lengths: thus, the parka arrives below the knees or becomes short. Even the Montgomery and peacoat are revamped through fine and innovative materials. For the evening, jackets are expressed through sparkling fabrics from light blue to silver.
Genderless freedom A new aesthetic sensitivity winds its way through the fall-winter 2020-21 collections. Crossing over genres, urban style or sportswear, they are outfits that do not dictate a pre-established dress code but become expressions of complete freedom for increasingly aware generations. Jackets and overcoats with neutral lines in the spirit of comfort. Multifunctional, modular and combinable accessories. Volumes are fundamental, while the color palette focuses on different shades of sand. Only in sporty lines do the colors become bright and distinctive.
Conscious clothing Respect for the environment as a lifestyle and fashion choice extends to include classic brands and new generation ones. The fall-winter 2020-21 collections express the urgency to protect the Planet, transforming it into pure fashion that is finally sustainable and striking for the message that it expresses and for the solutions that it proposes. Eco-sustainability creates new synergies between urban and outdoor lifestyles that are revamped thanks to innovative technologies with recycled, recyclable, biodegradable, natural and certified materials. From eco and vegan paddings to faux fur, from eco-leather to recycled Pet, from nylon obtained from the recovery of fishing nets to alternative organic fabrics. The panorama of possibilities evolves extremely fast, with collections that are bona fide activist projects, without compromising on an extremely attentive and meticulous design.